Truth: This approach to socialisation has been proved wrong by science (and experience). Successful socialisation is now considered to be safe introductions to a range of new experiences done at your puppy’s pace. Until quite recently major dog organisations were promoting the idea that puppy socialisation should consist of exposure to multiple experiences before the ‘critical period’ ended. This included people of all ages, shapes, sizes and characteristics – hats, beards, sticks – and so on, other dogs and animals, vehicles of all sorts and on and on. There were checklists to guide owners with goals of 100 people in a short time frame. With the benefit of hindsight, this advice sounds exhausting and overwhelming!

Recently, socialisation has been redefined with a focus on quality rather than quantity. This means that owners should consider what their puppy will benefit the most from being comfortable with (for example, rurally located pups may need to be relaxed around wildlife or tractors while city pups may experience more busy roads and steps), and gently introduce these people, experiences and sensations. The puppy’s body language and reactions are carefully observed in all these interactions and support is provided through reassurance and choice. The puppy is never forced to interact.

By making choice an integral part of the process, the puppy learns that you are listening and have
their back. This builds confidence as they are assured that if they feel afraid you will help them. One key way to help them is to make the interaction easier, perhaps by increasing the distance from the item. Other ways to support them include providing praise for moving towards the item and remaining patient when they are afraid or disinterested.
As noted in a different post (add link), the socialisation period is not a fixed time-frame. There can be some easier wins in this period but puppies will continue to learn after this stage so there is time and progress will be faster if all introductions are positive for your puppy.

If you would like some help with your puppy, get in touch using the contact button, send me an
email or give me a call. I provide 121 puppy support before and once the puppy has arrived as well
as running puppy classes.